探访毛南族和仫佬族的故乡

己丑清明，我用三天的假期驱车至环江毛南族自治县、融水苗族自治县、罗城仫佬族自治县和宜州市，我的照片留下了此次行程的美丽。 路线图：南宁——都安——河池——环江——洛阳——和平——华山——东兴——上朝——吉祥——汪洞——三防——融水——永乐——小长安——上砚河——下砚河——宜州——柳州——南宁（我画了两张路线图，可惜上不了网） 每一次在广西的旅行都告诉我：广西不止一个桂林。 在广西，被称为小桂林的地区和县有好几个。到了河池境内，你不得不感叹：广西处处是桂林！而且，河池的桂林山水，比已经成为世界旅游热地的桂林更纯粹，更清丽，更野气，更有上帝造山初期的神秘。 从环江到罗城的路上所见，我有一个快乐的发现：洛阳——华山——永乐——长安——上朝——吉祥，这些乡镇名称的古老似乎在告诉我一个消逝的故事。我甚至猜想，这些毛南族（原名叫毛难族）以及仫佬族的祖先，是否和万里之外的汉唐古都有着我们未知的秘密呢？ s309道，是我走过的最难走的道路之一，说它难不是因为它路况差，而是山高弯多。就拿途中必经的杨梅坳来说吧，其山路的爬坡高度就给了我一个下马威——我原来以为可以安全跑到融水的汽油（按经验可以跑将近400公里，而环江到融水才210公里）几乎弹尽粮绝，而且发动机有强烈的电线烧焦的臭味，弄得我心有忐忑。到达融水县城时油表已到红色报警区。可以毫不夸张地说，喜欢玩拉力赛的车友们，来开309省道吧，那保证叫你们大呼过瘾！ 从南宁到都安120公里，g50道，全程高速，收费50元。 1都安·途中550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 2都安·东山魁夷的风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 3都安·我对乡村的小土路有一种莫名的留恋550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 4都安往河池路上遇雨dsc_0019550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 5广西处处是桂林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 6都安·途中风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 7都安的水墨山水550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 8都安途中的小河550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 9都安的乡村550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 10都安·渡过小河的村民，一条白狗迎接他们550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 11都安·流水潺潺550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}">12都安·忙碌的春耕开始了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 从都安到河池还是g50道，全程一级公路，途中风景之美，自不待言。13河池近郊的风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 出河池约40公里，转s205道往环江，路况甚佳。环江的风景远逊河池。但县城周边的山水亦有桂林风味。 环江位于广西西北部，地处桂西北云贵高原东南麓，东邻融水、罗城县，南接宜州、河池市，西隔打狗河与南丹县相望,北与贵州荔波、从江两县毗连。距首府南宁331公里，距桂林340公里，距金城江48公里，距刘三姐故乡宜州67公里，交通方便。环江，是全国唯一的毛南族聚居县，全县人口40多万，有毛南、壮、瑶、苗、仫佬等少数民族31.3万人，毛南族占总人口的16.2%。环江是一块神奇而古老的土地，土地宽广，资源丰富。全县土地面积4572平方公里，是广西土地面积第五大县，也是广西林业大县，还有驰名中外的土特产品：川山凉席、毛南族花竹帽、下南菜牛、醇香浓馥的毛南红窖酒、被誉为“五香”食品的香猪、香鸭、香牛、香粳、香菇，著名地方产品有川山凉席、明伦香粳、龙岩香菌和茶油、下南菜牛、宜北香猪等。 环江山青水秀，洞多景奇，有如诗如画的长美风光；有多种珍稀濒危的动植物；有气势磅礴的龙潭瀑布；有世间罕见建筑精美的毛南族古墓群；有粗犷豪放的毛南木面舞；有欢乐轻快的苗族姐妹舞。主要旅游景点有下庙旅游度假山庄、大才神龙宫、下兰姻缘洞、川山瑞良旅游区、长美崖刻、明伦北宋牌坊和下南古墓群。 这是我抄录环江的简介，但我问宾馆的服务员或者市民，均不知环江有这些旅游景点。看来环江旅游局还不合格。 第二天，我驱车离开环江，取道往贵州荔波方向的省道，于是便遇上了洛阳、华山等令我不得不活动脑筋的 遐思。14环江县城550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 15从我住的宾馆俯瞰环江县城550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 16环江是一座美丽的毛南族小城550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 17剑江的静泊550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 18环江的田野550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 19环江的田园风光550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 20还是环江的风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 21远眺环江县城550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 22环江的田野2550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 23远处的高山是贵州荔波550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 24无限风光在高山550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 25我最喜欢的芒花550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 26芒花不仅仅给人美丽550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 27好风景！550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 28我的爱车长城哈佛在s309道上小憩550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 29往洛阳途中的风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 30群山莽莽550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 31莽莽群山550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 32洛阳镇附近的清澈河流550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 33一湾绿水550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 34绿意怏然550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 35田园风光550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 36“文革”时期修建的枝柳铁路穿越山区550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 37路边的小溪550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 38收甘蔗的农人550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 39处处风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 40安静的田园550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 41安静的乡村550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 42和善的水牛550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 43文革时代修建的铁路桥上有着鲜明的时代标志，这些标语对于很多年轻人来说已经太陌生550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 44江山如此多娇，那是一个既疯狂但又偷偷爱美的年代，现在已经世俗化了的社会再也不会在桥墩上刻这种奢侈的装饰品了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 45我经过的路边始终相伴着一条无名的小溪550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 46小溪550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 47小溪畔的村落550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 48我意外遇上了一株野生桑湛树，满树的桑湛已经熟了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 49令人垂涎三尺的桑湛果550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 50俺当然不会放过如此美味1550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 51再见桑湛树550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 52绿水濯我心550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 53爱车也在享受风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 54野花总是给人清纯的美550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 55华山到了，我怀疑，这里的毛南族，原来可是叫毛难族的啊——和真正的华山有什么牵连550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 56华山的河流550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 57还是溪水清清550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 58我在溪边捡了一块石头，纪念吧550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 59总有一种追逐清溪的冲动550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 60群山青黛，绿水如蓝550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 61又是东山魁夷 风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 62才杨梅坳上远眺550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 63壮哉大山550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 64受伤的大山4550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 65大山深处人家550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 66深山中的花儿550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 67惊回首，离天三尺三550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 68此座鬼门关在这边看似平常，而在另一边则是万丈深渊，我只能过了关才敢停车550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 69山中牧歌550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 70山瀑550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 71仙女浴池550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 72小诗一阕550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 73豁然开朗550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 74土地平旷，屋舍俨然550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 75莫非桃源1550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 76车上杨梅坳550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 77一山更比一山高550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 78苍莽云海间550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 79杨梅坳上的无名野花550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 80还是野花550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 81乔木上的花儿550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 82花香云海550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 83春天来了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 84花如海550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 85万绿丛中一点媚550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 86生机勃勃的厥草550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 87厥草的春天550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 88嫣然550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 89路边杜鹃550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 90野梧桐树的花儿550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 91争报春消息550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 92绽放550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 93松柏杜鹃550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 95盛开550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 96望着蜿蜒远去的山路，我会无端的感动550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 97真想下去走一走550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 99玉树临风，心旷神怡550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 100心高气远，云雾山中550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 101杨梅坳路边的古柏树550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 102爱车在杨梅坳上小憩550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 103毛竹林已经列为公益植物受到保护，砍一株罚50元550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 104苍山如海550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 105郁郁葱葱550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 106杨梅坳的核心景区，据说曾繁华一时，而今明日黄花550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 107连绵群山无穷尽550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 108望山兴叹550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 109杨梅坳上有无数的飞瀑流泉550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 109疑是银河落青山550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 112终于下山了，接近红色的油表几乎令我绝望，现在和清幽的风景一样，平静了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}">113下山了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 114贝江的源头之一随我的车下了杨梅坳550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 115这是苗族的地盘，苗人的水利系统550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 116小溪的歌声550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 117长尾花喜鹊飞过山林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 118森林中的美丽精灵，可惜我的摄影技术太溴550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 119融水乡下的基督教堂550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 120在黑屋顶上的信仰550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 121荣基堂550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 122寨子的瓦顶黑得真漂亮，也不知苗人的黑瓦是怎么烧出来的550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 123清清贝江550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 124贝江畔有很多的古榕550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 125贝江的风情550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 126贝江让我流连忘返550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 127古榕550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 128远山550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 129还是古榕550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 130贝江的索桥550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 131路边的花儿，真香550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 132苗寨的风情550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 133竹林人家550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 142清幽550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 146竹林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 147远望550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 148大山深处550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 149融水到了，我的车缺油的警报解除了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 150谁敢说融水不是小桂林呢550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 151山水550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 152通向罗城的s204道550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 153山水550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 154山水550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 155诗意550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 156反正都是诗550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 157还是山水550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 158仫佬族的村落550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 159村舍550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 160桃花林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 161花重重松重重550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 162不知名的蒲公英，没拍好550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 163小诗一束550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 164往罗城的道路太平坦了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 165九万大山之下是一片罕见的平原550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 166很难相信这是少数民族聚居的山区550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 167平原上打柴的母女俩550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 168广西不但处处是桂林，还处处是桃源啊550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}">170家住翠绿中550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 171春天的绿550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 172又是一个叫我惊喜的乡镇——永乐到了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 173永乐乡的牛市550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 174这头牛好多人看上了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 175永乐乡的风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 176春耕啦550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 177又见铁路550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 178长安镇不知路边，没有进去，拍点风景吧550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 179长安镇的风景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 180河边550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 181浣衣的妇女550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 182三牛图550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 183翠竹河边550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 184翠竹550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 185家园550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 186漂亮的路550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 187这里的远处莫非桂林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 188三只鸭子的故事550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 189同伴们过来了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 190这三只鸭就是不去迎接550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 191会面时的矜持550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 192终成一家子，皆大欢喜550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 193红土地550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 194辽阔550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 195车过罗城550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 196罗城的街景550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 197罗城到宜州路上所见550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 198桂林吧，我都审美疲劳了550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 199这两辆摩托车时速达80多公里，堪称飞车党550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 200宜州上砚河风光550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 201真假桂林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 202宜州的山水550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 203宜州的田园550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 204下砚河风光550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 205会享受的一家子——专车来到下砚河，女士浣衣，男士游泳550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}">206下砚河边的别墅550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 207农民的别墅，眼红吧550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 208再见下砚河550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 209我们去吃河鱼的风情岛，和下砚河没法分550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 210宜州的画家朋友严寒，精书诗画印，宜州高士也550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 211在风情岛上吃河鱼550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 212家长里短550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 213餐馆后面的竹林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 214竹林550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 215小黄牛犊像竹林中的精灵550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 216天伦之乐550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 217我喜欢的小路550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 218竹林后面是村庄550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 219宜州一瞥550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 220宜州550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 221宜州的山水不输桂林啊550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 221再见宜州550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 222河边的人们550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 222我喜欢的河550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 223文人画550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 224小赤壁550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 225加油站的黄昏550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 226高速路上的休息站有异国风情美550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 227黄昏的山野550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 228夕阳无限好550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 黄昏如此美丽 550){this.height=550/this.width*this.height;this.width=550;}"> 终于发完了！胜利！累人！大家慢慢看，俺慢慢改。
关键字： 仫佬族 吉祥 宜州市 路线图 长安